In 2016, I remember, it was the first time I thought of going to Hampi. It was the first UNESCO site I had read about. It took me 3 years to finally book tickets for Hampi. On the last weekend of the year 2019, I arrived in Hampi.
I am not sure whether it was preconception notion of a heritage site or the town itself, but as soon as I entered Hampi (via a bus from Hospet) there was this ancient air, an aura of the old that engulfed me. As the scenery changed to the columns of abandoned structure and hills to random piling of stones and boulders of all sizes – I knew I have reached Hampi.
The gopuram of the Virupaksha temple is what you see, as you take a left turn for the Hampi bus stop. Once you get down from the bus, you would be surrounded by the autorickshaw driver offering to take you around. Don’t. If you really want to see Hampi, then the best way is on a bicycle or by walking. I will elaborate on this in a bit. Let’s first discuss and share some gyan about this enchanting town called Hampi.
Hampi, as we know it now, was declared as a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1986. The town is built on the banks of the river Tungabhadra and the other side of the river has come to be known as the Hampi or Hippie island. There are many mythological legends and historic tales associated with this town. Let’s look at them.
Pampa-kshetra – The story of Shiva and Parvati
In ancient times, Hampi was known as Pampa-kshetra. It was named after Pampa – the old name of the river Tungabhadra. Pampa is called Hampe in Kannada but is anglicised as Hampi.
There is also a legend of Lord Shiva and Parvati associated with this town. According to it, Goddess Pampa who is said to be the daughter of Lord Brahma was performing penance on what is now known as Hemakuta hill. It was during this time that Kamadeva – the God of love observed both Pampa and Lord Shiva who was meditating nearby and conspired to bring them together. However, Shiva was angered by being disturbed during his meditation and opened his third eye in wrath turning Kamadeva to ashes. But the plan of Kamadeva worked and Shiva was pleased by Pampa’s devotion. Eventually, they got married and Shiva came to be known as Pampapati. From that time on, Pampa came to be known as Parvati – companion of Shiva.
Ramayana – The Kishkindh Episode
This town is said to be in the centre of the action of Ramayana, more specifically, the Kishkindh episode. If legends are to be believed, it was in one of these caves where Lord Rama held the first meeting with Vanar Raaj Sugriva (now known as Sugriva’s cave) and Hanuman to discuss the plan of action to rescue Sita from Lanka. It is also said to be the birthplace of Anjani-putra Hanuman (the hill is now called as Anjandari hill and the village is named Hanumanahalli).
There are five hills that surround the town which speaks the stories of Hindu Mythology namely, Anjandari hill, Malyavanta hill, Matanga hill, Hemkut hill and Rishimukh hill.
Vijayanagara Kingdom
Hampi was once the prospering town of the Vijayanagara kingdom ruled by the King Krishnadeva Raya of Tuluka Dynasty. It was the golden age of the town. The king was known for his intricate taste of Art and Architecture which is evident in the temples and the details went in the carving of each pillar and stone. The temple and its compound also narrate the tale of the rampage that the Islamic leaders brought with them, as they ravaged the country and the town in search of the gold, silver and the riches. The city was destroyed after these attacks in 1565. The history of all this is being preserved under the UNESCO World Heritage site.
There are many such stories hidden behind every stone, every boulder and every monument that inhabits this quaint town of Hampi. And I spent 4 days cycling the lanes, crossing the river and walking through the paddy fields searching and witnessing them.
One has a choice to look for an accommodation in Hospet, Ancient Hampi, Hampi island (Hippie side of Hampi) or a few nearing villages like Kamalapur, Sanapur, Gangavatti, etc. The places on the other side of the river are devoid of the noise of the bazaar and is replaced by peace, silence, serenity and paddy fields. If you are looking to stay for a longer time, I would suggest staying a day or two in the Ancient Hampi, then you can move to the other side of the river and enjoy the peace and the silence.
Avani Lalka 